New Replica Patek Philippe Calatrava "Clous de Paris" Watch
While most collectors get excited about a watch they will never have, let's go back instead to these two very “Patek” references, the 6119R-001 and the 6119G-001, which represent the new generation of Patek Philippe Calatrava "Clous de Paris" replica watch which arrives in a new version with a 39mm case housing a brand new manually-wound caliber.
The case
The famous Calatrava with its "Clous de Paris" guilloche bezel is one of the most emblematic models of the Patek Philippe style. This year, this great classic is back in force in a new version with a diameter enlarged to 39 mm (which will not appeal to purists for sure) and a dial with applied indexes.
This new reference 6119 - a number paying homage to the historic flagship model 3919 as well as to the reference 5119 from 2006 - is available in pink gold and white gold.
The black lacquered Roman numerals on a white background of references 3919 and 5119 give way to more contemporary “shell” type applied indexes and faceted in 18-carat gold (with double index at 12 o'clock).
Patek Philippe a souhaité revenir aux sources du design Calatrava et aux références 96 de 1932 et 96D de 1934 (les deux premières) qui étaient équipées d’index appliques de ce type.
Les grandes aiguilles des heures et des minutes en or de forme « dauphine » (toujours très horlogères) rappellent elles aussi la référence 96, mais dotées de trois faces au lieu de deux. L’ensemble est complété par l’intégration d’une minuterie « chemin de fer » à la périphérie du cadran.
La petite seconde, quant à elle, mène sa ronde à 6h de manière classique, au sein d’un cadran auxiliaire partagé en quatre quartiers sur lequel tourne une très fine aiguille de type « cheveu ».
La lunette ronde ornée du motif guilloché « Clous de Paris » (qui donne son nom au modèle) adopte un profil légèrement plus large et biseauté, avec un mince filet poli entourant la glace saphir de type « box ».
Finally, the shape of the bracelet fasteners has also been redesigned. The straight brackets of the reference 3919 - a little austere - are followed by curved brackets, inspired by the reference 96 and the automatic models of the 1990s, which offer a nice transition between the case and the bracelet.
This new model is offered in two versions. Reference 6119R-001 combines a pink gold case with a grained silver dial enhanced by pink gold applied indexes and hands; it is worn on a shiny chocolate brown alligator strap with a pink gold pin buckle.
The dial
Reference 6119G-001 in white gold is associated with an anthracite gray dial, with contrasting finishes - "vertical satin" for the back and finely azure for the small seconds at 6 o'clock; its "face" is punctuated with applied indexes and hands in the same precious metal as the case and it is offered on a shiny black alligator strap with white gold pin buckle.
The movement
This launch is an opportunity for the Manufacture to unveil a brand new basic movement to add to its vast portfolio of "in-house" calibers. The aim was to develop a hand-wound movement with a diameter greater than that of the caliber 215 PS (small), while allowing the construction of cases of great finesse.
The new caliber 30-255 PS thus sports a casing diameter of 30.4 mm (total diameter 31 mm), against 21.5 mm on the 215 PS (total diameter 21.9 mm) and an unchanged height of 2, 55 mm, hence its name.
To keep this thickness identical to that of the caliber 215, the engineers and manufacturers of the Manufacture have implemented several ingenious solutions, including a center pinion without a wheel plate, meshing with the center wheel by means of a reference. , as well as a ratchet and a crown placed not on, but under the barrel bridge.
In terms of energy, the caliber 30-255 PS has a power reserve of 65 hours, or nearly three days. The movement is distinguished by its two barrels mounted "in parallel", that is, arming and disarming at the same time and simultaneously meshing with the center pinion - a construction very rarely used.
Unlike "in-line" barrels, designed to extend the power reserve, "parallel" barrels aim to increase the driving torque of the movement, the two torques being added.
This solution made it possible to obtain maximum power in a restricted thickness and thus to be able to double the inertia of the balance (10 mg / cm2, i.e. the highest inertia of all Patek Philippe 4 Hz movements) - which guarantees better walking stability and easier adjustment.
The frequency of 4 Hz serves the same purpose. The 30-255 PS caliber also meets the very strict precision criteria of the Patek Philippe Hallmark - with a maximum tolerance of –3 / + 2 seconds per 24 hours.
The addition of a "second stop", which stops the balance when the crown is pulled out to the time-setting position, allows the watch to be set to the nearest second. When you push the crown back, this mechanism gives the balance a little push to restart it.
This caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal case-back, features six cut-out bridges with finishes in the great watchmaking tradition, including Côtes de Genève and bevelled and polished edges.
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