Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 No Date Replica Watch
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic of all Rolex models, and of all wristwatches ever produced. So it follows, that the biggest Rolex news in 2020 was the September launch that replaced the entire Submariner collection with eight new references. Since 1959, the Submariner has had a 40mm case. Now, all eight new Submariner references measure 41mm in diameter, with leaner crown guards and trimmer lugs that accommodate a new Oyster bracelet. The new Submariner Ref. 124060 is also fitted with the new Caliber 3230 movement that improves the power reserve to 70 hours.
Like all new watch launches I saw during 2020, the Rolex USA presentation was through video conference. During the presentation, we discussed the outgoing Ref 114060 with its fat lugs and thicker crown guards. I wasn't a fan and preferred the aesthetics of its predecessor Refs 14060 & 14060M, the last of the classic Submariners with aluminum bezel inserts. To my pleasant surprise, Rolex USA assured that despite the Ref. 124060's subtle <1mm increase in case size, the Rolex team worked hard to design a new Submariner that appeared smaller on the wrist with trimmer lugs and a cleaner profile. After the presentation, I was smitten and intrigued. The Ref. 124060 sounded like the modern Submariner I've been waiting for. Thinking on it for several weeks, I finally contacted a Rolex Boutique and pulled the trigger.(Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 No Date replica watch)
Redesigned 40.6mm Case
While collectors spend countless hours comparing the endless variations of the Submariner movements, dials, hands and cases over the years, when Rolex redesigned the Submariner Ref. 114060 in 2012, the results were anything but subtle to my eyes. Although the case remained 40mm in continuity with the previous five decades, the Ref. 114060 redesign was a swing & a miss for me with its fat lugs, thick crown guards, and decidedly boxy shape that wasn't comfortable to wear.
Fast forward eight years, and the Ref. 124060 tweaks the proportions for a sleek silhouette. The official Rolex press kit rounds up the stainless steel case width by a full 1mm to 41mm. However, when measured with precision calipers, the actual width increase is less than 1mm; specifically, the new case width is 40.6mm in diameter. Since the Ref. 114060 measures 40.2mm in diameter, that's just a 0.4mm increase. The subtle and visually imperceptible size increase is by necessity to accommodate the new Caliber 3230 in-house movement. The case thickness remains unchanged at just over 12mm. Altogether, the slim lugs and leaner crown guards are a design pivot back to the Submariner's classical proportions and understated elegance.
Triplock Crown & Solid Case Back
The crown measures 7mm in diameter, and works together with a solid screw down case back to ensure 300m of water resistance.
Introduced in 1970, the Triplock crown is both simple and over-engineered. Comprised of 10 different component parts, the crown is screwed down into a winding crown tube which is screwed into place with a star shaped key fitted to the inside of the tube. The "Triplock" name refers to the waterproof system of three rubber seals. There are two rubber seals on the inside of the winding crown tube, as well as a third rubber seal inside the crown. Each rubber seal creates a sealed zone to protect against water entering the watch.
Built into the winding crown is a clutch system. When the crown is completely screwed down, the winding crown does not to wind the calibre. When unscrewed, the clutch system locks into place allowing the watch to be either wound manually (position 1), or when pulled out into setting position, to adjust the hands (position 2).
The solid case back is hermetically screwed into place by a specific tool that follows the form of the fine edge fluting pattern.
Dial
I love the symmetry of the black dial. The clean lines and simple shapes have a logical layout that is balanced and practical. The applied dots, markers, and triangle are luminous for legibility both day and night.
On the predecessor Ref. 114060, the minute hand didn't quite reach the minute track. Whereas, the Ref. 124060 has an elongated minute hand that reaches the edge of the minute track. From its hand tube at the center of the dial, the minute hand measures 12mm. The seconds hand is also ever so slightly elongated to reach into the minute track. From its hand tube at the center of the dial, the seconds hand measures 12.2mm. The hour hand remains unchanged, and from its hand tube at the center of the dial measures 8mm.
While the dial itself remains 27.5mm in diameter, the rehaut widens to 28.4mm. These elongated hands are yet another subtle, yet aesthetically pleasing refinement to classical proportions. The overall visual effect is that the Maxi dial doesn't look so Maxi despite using the same indexes on the same size dial. One other dial surprise is a coronet printed at 6 o'clock between the words "Swiss" and "Made".
New Caliber 3230
Caliber 3230 is based on the previous generation Caliber 3130, as well as the date version of this movement Caliber 3235, and features numerous incremental improvements to the escapement and oscillator that are the heart of the mechanism. These improvements make the Caliber 3230 more precise, reliable, durable and resistant to magnetism than its predecessor. Not only is the Caliber 3230 a workhorse movement, the new components and finishing details are easy on the eyes.
The Calibre 3230 is equipped with a self-winding module with a new-generation rotor for rapid winding of the new high-capacity mainspring. The Chronergy escapement, optimized gear train and new barrel architecture combine to extend the power reserve to 70 hours. The reversing wheel system enables winding in either direction of the oscillating weight.
Caliber 3230 Specifications
Diameter: 28.5 mm
Jewels: 31
Power reserve: 70 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz/28,800 vph
Winding: Automatic
Hairspring: Parachrom
Escapement: Chronergy
Certification: COSC chronometer
Conclusion
The Ref. 124060 revives the classical aesthetic of the Submariner, and marries it with a modern movement and materials. The proportions and design cues of the Ref. 124060 are reminiscent of the Refs 14060 & 14060M, more than its predecessor Ref. 114060.
For me, the Ref. 114060 is the Porsche 996 - the first water-cooled 911 that restyled the iconic front end with fried egg shaped headlights. Purists considered the facelift controversial. Another interesting comparison is that both the Ref. 114060 (2012-2020) and 996 (1997-2005) had relatively short production runs. While many enthusiasts enjoyed both icons during their production, imo both carry some baggage now that they're discontinued.
Which means for me, the Ref. 124060 is the Porsche 997. Meaning, after a brief distraction, Rolex corrected its course & got it right. It's a return to classical, clean design elements that stir the soul. It's proof that despite 67 years of producing endless variations of the same thing, Rolex can sometimes get it wrong, but most times Rolex gets it right.
The Ref. 124060 makes me grateful that Rolex doesn't change the basic shape of the Submariner, and grateful that Rolex doesn't blow up its Submariner case into the oversized. The Ref. 124060 reminds me why I love the Submariner. With its sleek silhouette, comfortable bracelet, and modern movement, the new Submariner checks all the boxes and I've nothing but praise for the watch.
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